I have been using this razor exclusively for two years so understand it well. It is of quality construction and beautiful, and I don't doubt that it could last a lifetime.
This is my third safety razor, my other two being a Parker twist-to-open and a 1959 Gillette super speed. I had to ditch the parker because of poor quality, the blade sat in the holder at an angle which led to many bad cuts.
I can get a very good shave out of the Merkur 180, but have to put some effort to that end. This is a fairly aggressive razor, meaning that the guard sits a farther distance from the blade than a milder razor. This means that you can get a closer shave but run the risk of nicks if not careful. My Gillette super speed is by comparison much less aggressive. For the first several months getting used to the Merkur, I would sometimes get the cleanest most refreshing shave ever, and other times would get an awful shave with many cuts, bad razor burn and still feel rough. After weeks of experimenting with technique and going through different blades in my sampler pack I discovered the root cause of my problems were the posts that center the blade. They are too small and allow the blade to sit unevenly, so when you tighten down the handle, it has the potential to be clamped off-center. In this scenario, one side of the razor shaves nicely, the other cuts badly.
Since I learned this, I have taken care to align the blade carefully and have gotten more consistent shaves. For me, the Feather blades work best. Astra, Sharks, and Merkur blades also treat me well. I have noticed this razor is fairly unforgiving of less quality blades and can get many nicks off some brands, esp. Wilkinson Sword. Beard prep is also of utmost importance: take a HOT shower and wash and rinse well getting lots of hot water on beard to soften it. I use Nutragena cream shave (have tried a dozen brands and found the slipperiest works the best). I shave with the grain and do a light second pass against the grain, rinsing in between. I have a very coarse beard but sensitive skin, so have to be careful in my technique. I figured out how to make the razor work for me, but feel that it shouldn't be this finicky.
The reason for the three stars is only because the posts that center the blade don't center it. Really, its the most important function of a razor, to hold the blade squarely. It doesn't do its basic job.
A little while back, I acquired my grandfathers old Gillette super speed and was blown away by how much easier it was to get a close shave with no nicks. This is from a 54 year old razor. The reason it works better is it grips the blade perfectly evenly and has a less aggressive blade position. Blades that I passed off as rubbish before shave well on the super speed. It was this discovery that prompted me to write this review, that when you find the right razor for your face, you will instantly know it. Prior to a few weeks ago, I thought the Merkur was great but trying something new made me realize how much effort it took to get a good shave. I'm not faulting the Merkur for not being right for me, but for bad blade positioning.
This is my third safety razor, my other two being a Parker twist-to-open and a 1959 Gillette super speed. I had to ditch the parker because of poor quality, the blade sat in the holder at an angle which led to many bad cuts.
I can get a very good shave out of the Merkur 180, but have to put some effort to that end. This is a fairly aggressive razor, meaning that the guard sits a farther distance from the blade than a milder razor. This means that you can get a closer shave but run the risk of nicks if not careful. My Gillette super speed is by comparison much less aggressive. For the first several months getting used to the Merkur, I would sometimes get the cleanest most refreshing shave ever, and other times would get an awful shave with many cuts, bad razor burn and still feel rough. After weeks of experimenting with technique and going through different blades in my sampler pack I discovered the root cause of my problems were the posts that center the blade. They are too small and allow the blade to sit unevenly, so when you tighten down the handle, it has the potential to be clamped off-center. In this scenario, one side of the razor shaves nicely, the other cuts badly.
Since I learned this, I have taken care to align the blade carefully and have gotten more consistent shaves. For me, the Feather blades work best. Astra, Sharks, and Merkur blades also treat me well. I have noticed this razor is fairly unforgiving of less quality blades and can get many nicks off some brands, esp. Wilkinson Sword. Beard prep is also of utmost importance: take a HOT shower and wash and rinse well getting lots of hot water on beard to soften it. I use Nutragena cream shave (have tried a dozen brands and found the slipperiest works the best). I shave with the grain and do a light second pass against the grain, rinsing in between. I have a very coarse beard but sensitive skin, so have to be careful in my technique. I figured out how to make the razor work for me, but feel that it shouldn't be this finicky.
The reason for the three stars is only because the posts that center the blade don't center it. Really, its the most important function of a razor, to hold the blade squarely. It doesn't do its basic job.
A little while back, I acquired my grandfathers old Gillette super speed and was blown away by how much easier it was to get a close shave with no nicks. This is from a 54 year old razor. The reason it works better is it grips the blade perfectly evenly and has a less aggressive blade position. Blades that I passed off as rubbish before shave well on the super speed. It was this discovery that prompted me to write this review, that when you find the right razor for your face, you will instantly know it. Prior to a few weeks ago, I thought the Merkur was great but trying something new made me realize how much effort it took to get a good shave. I'm not faulting the Merkur for not being right for me, but for bad blade positioning.
No comments:
Post a Comment